The Plough Boy Journals

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19th Century American Whaling

Bonin Islands

Pitcairn's Island

Dictionaries & Glossaries

Ashley's Glossary of
Whaling Terms

Dana's Dictionary of
Sea Terms

JOURNAL

OF

H.M.S. ENTERPRISE,

ON THE

EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OP SIR JOHN FRANKLINS SHIPS
BY BEHRING STRAIT.

1850-55.

BY

CAPTAIN RICHARD COLLINSON, C.B., R.N.

COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION.

With a Memoir of his other Services.

EDITED BY HIS BROTHER,

MAJOR-GENERAL T. B. COLLINSON (Royal Engineers).

        'Tis not in mortals to command success.
         But we'll do more, Sempronius, we'll deserve it.
		             Addison's "Cato."

LONDON:

SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON,

LIMITED,
St. Dunstan's House,
Fetter Lane, Fleet Street, E.C.

1889.

(All rights reserved.)

      A fine breeze sprung up on the morning of the 26th of April, which, continuing for the next forty-eight hours, relieved my anxiety concerning our live stock, which I began to fear we should not be able to carry up to the ice with us; but making Bailey Island at 2 a.m. on the morning of the 28th, we bore away for Port Lloyd. At daylight, and even for some time afterwards, we had a difficulty in making out exactly where we were. The Blossom having made the port from the north, we could not for some time reconcile Captain Beechey's description of the land; but running along outside the islets which lay off the south end of Peel Island, we soon made out the three peaks at the back of the harbour, and the high cliff on the south side as you enter. Still we were at a loss for the remarkable islet on the northern side, which is described as the principal landmark; being, however, under the cliffs from the direction we approached, it did not appear conspicuous. As we drew in, a canoe under sail crossed our bows, the sole occupant of which was soon on board. He had but small clothing, and less English, but managed, however, to let us know that his name was Harry, that he was a pilot, and that he had pigs, turtle, yams and onions for sale. So putting ourselves under his guidance, we ran in, without, however, seeing the coral patch on the south side, to which we must have given a close shave, and succeeded in getting to an anchorage without much difficulty. It is, however, an

awkward place for a heavy ship to enter, in consequence of the deepness of the water, the steepness of the coral banks, and the sudden flaws of wind, which are sometimes very violent. Our cattle were soon revelling in all the luxury of a cabbage-palm.

      Captain Beechey's voyage in the Blossom having called public attention to these islands, and their importance as a place of resort for the whale ships employed in the Japanese seas being early seen, Mr. Charlton, our Consul at the Sandwich Islands, equipped an expedition for the purpose of establishing a settlement on them in 1831. Four of these original settlers still remained on our arrival, and from one of these (Chapin) I got the following account, which I copy nearly verbatim, as it gives both a useful and interesting account of the establishment.

Bonin Islands.

      The season for planting at the Bonin Islands is in the months of March and April. Ships calling at these islands can procure whatever supplies they may want of potatoes, yams, onions, pumpkins, pigs, goats, fowls, and fish, at any season, and green turtle from February to August inclusive. Wood and water are easily to be procured at any time. The turtle begin to lay their eggs in May, and continue to lay until August; after that time they leave the isles, the males departing five or six weeks before the females. The latter lay from 200 to 400 eggs each, according to their age, and at two different layings. The price of supplies are:

      The settlers have put hogs, goats, and deer on some of the other islands, and they are increasing rapidly. The best anchorage is at Port Lloyd, in about 24 fathoms of water.

      The prevailing winds from April to October are from N.E. to S.E. with generally fine weather; and from November to

March inclusive, from N.W. to S.W. The strongest gales are in May and November, and always begin at S.E.; they blow hard for about four hours from that direction, and chop suddenly round to the westward and die away, but they do not come regularly; sometimes for three or four years there are none in these months. In December, January, and February there are gales from W. to N.W., but not very heavy. There is in the harbour, a short distance from the anchorage, a very convenient place to heave a vessel down for repairs, and also a sand-bank to lay a vessel on shore if necessary. There have been, since the settlers have been on the islands, two ships and one schooner that have landed their cargoes and repaired here, and one Russian man-of-war was hove down here before the settlers came.

      Since the isle has been settled (about twenty-one years), there have been born on the isle twenty-six children, of which twenty-one were boys and five girls; twelve children have died, ten boys and two girls; and also eight male adults and six females. Some of the men have been left here sick from the ships; the greater part of the boys, all but four, are gone away on board different ships; and two of the girls are gone to Oahu for their education.

      August 3rd, 1837, arrived H.M.S. Raleigh, 16 guns, Captain Quin, five weeks from Macao; and on December 23rd, 1838, arrived H.M.S. Larne, 18 guns, Captain Blake, forty-five days from Macao bound to the Isle of Ascension, one of the Caroline Islands; August 9th, 1849, arrived the schooner Louisa, Captain Hadley, and the cutter Maid of Australia, Captain Young, from Hong-kong; and on August llth, arrived the China-built vessel (junk) Saint Andrew, Captain Barker, from Hong-kong, as commander of the whole; they recruited, and all sailed again August 29th. On September 21st, the junk, Captain Barker, and the cutter, Captain Young, returned (the schooner having gone on), having had bad weather, and the junk having broke her rudder, and both wanting repairs and provisions; the settlers on the island gave them every assistance in their power, and fitted them for sea. After they were ready, they first commenced plundering

the natives of their live stock, salt provisions, oil, etc. They then commenced plundering the whites; they robbed Mr. Savory of about $2000 in cash, and about $2000 in live stock, salt provision, stores, oil, clothing, medicine chests, canvas, etc.; in fact, all they could get hold of; what they did not want they broke and destroyed, Mr. Savory being obliged to secrete himself in the bush, for fear they would take his life. They also robbed Mr. Millichamp of his live stock, salt meat, stores, money, etc., and a large quantity of clothing; in fact, they robbed all the settlers of whatever they could.

      A French whale ship, the Nile, arrived while they were here, and nine of her men left her; Captain Barker furnished them with arms to defend themselves, and prevent the French captain and officers from taking them; and after the ship had sailed he received them all on board. On some of the settlers remonstrating with Captain Young, of the cutter, concerning the robberies, he said he did not care what his people did, and did not care if they left the settlers with only a shirt and trousers. They took away Mr. Savory's wife and also one other female with them; and on January 9th, 1850, the junk and the cutter sailed for San Francisco.

      On July 20th arrived the brigantine Vanguard, from Hong-kong, Captain Richards, bound to Stewart's Island for Beche de Mer. On the 4th of August she sailed; and after she got outside, the captain in the night sent the boat on shore armed, and they stole one female from off the beach, and carried her away in the vessel. We understood their intention was to get two more females, and carry them to Stewart's Isle, and dispose of them to the chiefs there for Beche de Mer, as females are in great demand there. We understood that the boat's crew was to have a reward of $20 a head for whatever females they might get and bring on board. The same night they bore away.

      The tides rise four feet at these islands; it is high water at 6 o'clock at full and change.

      Having met with Captain Hadley (of the Louisa above mentioned), who, greatly to his credit, endeavoured to have

Captain Barker arrested for the above atrocity at Hanalae Bay, I was in some measure prepared for the story, and had written to General Millar to say that I would have the depositions of the parties taken and forwarded to him, so that these miscreants might not go unpunished. I found that the U.S. brig Dolphin, Captain Page, had called here in September for the express purpose of obtaining evidence on the subject, and which, I hope, will lead to the offenders being punished. Mr. Savory, now an old man, still felt his loss deeply, but most of all his wife, who was a young girl born on the island; she, however, it appears, was a good riddance, for by all accounts she gave information as to where his money and valuables were hid, and departed nothing loth.

      The cliffs in many places round the harbour came so close to the beach as to leave no cultivateable ground between them and the sea; but where valleys occur they have all been turned to account, with the exception of one on the west side of the inner harbour, which has probably been left vacant as a careening and repairing place for vessels. Beginning at the head of the harbour, on the eastern side is the establishment of Mr. Savory, which yet showed signs of the wantonness of Commodore Barker and his crew. One could not help sorrowing to see the old man thus robbed of the fruits of his industry, and the comforts he had laid by for his old age. On the same side of the harbour, abreast our anchorage, James Moitley, an old man-of-war's man, was located, and here we watered; the stream, however, being so far from the beach as to require all the length of our watering hose. Below Moitley and opposite the entrance of the harbour was a long beach, occupied by the natives of Oahu, and here the deserters from the whale ships had taken refuge. At the southern end of the harbour, and just inside the high cliff, is the flagstaff, and the settlement of the principal person charged by Mr. Charlton with the colony; he was and had been absent some time, and the house and grounds were in charge of John Newheavn. This is a very convenient situation, as it has the advantage of

a narrow isthmus of sand, over which canoes can be hauled, thus affording a convenient communication both with the harbour and the sea; and there is more level ground in this vicinity. Outside the harbour, in a bay to the southward of the isthmus, was the establishment of our pilot Harry Bolla. On the west side of the harbour, immediately after you enter, is a long beach, within which Bravo, Webb, and Cullins had their plantations. We were soon boarded by the different parties, and having made our arrangements to take something from all, so that the whole community might benefit by our visit, we set to work completing our water, cutting grass, and taking in firewood. With our seine we were at first unsuccessful; but by taking the proper time of tide, and watching the shoals, we soon caught more mullet than we could consume. On the 2nd of May I went to one of the islands outside, goat-shooting, but having been far from well since leaving Hong-kong, I was soon overcome by the heat. Some of the officers afterwards succeeded in getting two or three, which proved capital eating; they are quite wild, and cause an amazing deal of fatigue not only to follow but to get at.

      Chapin informed me that there are five men and two women on Bailey Islands to the southward; there is no anchorage among them, but ships sometimes stand off and on, while their boats obtain water and refreshment. Webb also mentioned that since he has been on the island (five years) he has twice seen the harbour covered with pumice stone; no doubt caused by an eruption from Sulphur Island. The turtle, no doubt, are fast diminishing; they still, however, form the staple article of food, being salted down for the winter's consumption.

      Having laid in a good stock of fodder for our remaining five head of cattle, completed our stock of pigs to thirty-five, and embarked twenty turtle, besides as many potatoes, yams, and onions as we could stow, some of which we hoped to carry up to the Plover, we were ready for sea on the morning of the 5th of May, but owing to light airs did not start until next day. Then, being well content with the

nature and extent of our supplies, we bade the settlers farewell. I furnished them with a Union Jack and some ball cartridge, strongly advising them to show some confidence, and stick by one another, in the event of Commodore Barker, or any other marauder, visiting them in future; but if they did not work together, and allowed one bay after another to be robbed, they would all suffer in detail. I also had the gratification of increasing Mr. Chapin's library, which I have little doubt affords the old patriarch some gratification, and may possibly be useful to the rising generation.

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