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II. — Visit to Port Lloyd, Bonin Islands* in Her Majesty's
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These are as follows: — The labourer clears away a piece of land ready for planting, (say one or two acres) the employer finding him maintenance, and seed for planting the land the first year, all the implements for clearing and cultivating, and materials for building his habitation. Of this piece of land so cleared, the labourer receives half the profits of its produce, and it is entirely his province to cultivate it, and to gather in the crops; the employer receives the other half. As the Sandwich Islanders, as well as the natives of other islands in the Pacific, are mostly of an indolent and reckless disposition, it is not left to them to sell the produce grown on the land they hold. This is done by the employer, as they would frequently, from mere laziness and indifference in seeking the standard market price, dispose of it for half its value or less. But this plan does not, as it would at first appear, leave a channel open for the employer defrauding the labourer. The latter must know the exact amount of the produce of his land, and every article in the island has a general uniform price, on a fixed scale, from which it appears that none of the settlers are inclined to deviate. Therefore the labourer must know the amount due to him, after the sale of his produce is effected. This agreement between the employer and the labourer is known in the island by the term of "going upon halves." It appears that the principal or indeed the only outlet for the sale of their produce, is the occasional call made by Whalers during what they term the "Japan season," which is comprized between the end of April and the beginning of September. The fear of typhoons, or stormy weather, during the other months deters them from frequenting the neighbourhood of these seas. On the approach of the "Japan season" they repair hither, especially to the north-east coast of Japan, where, I am informed, the most valuable sperm whales are taken. The rigid exclusion of all foreign intercourse so unrelentingly adhered to by the Japanese, had hitherto left the whale ships without a point to resort to for refreshments; and even lately frightful instances of scurvy and similar diseases have prevailed in some of them on their arrival at Port Lloyd. This voluntary settlement therefore, such as it is, with a very obscure and limited knowledge at present even of its existence, without protection, without recognition, is invaluable to many employed in the precarious and arduous occupation of whaling. Although its site is subject to the periodical visits of typhoons or hurricanes, which prevail in these latitudes nearly throughout the world, the climate is extremely healthy, and I was informed that |
even in the summer months the heat is not oppressive. During our stay from 23d to 30th December, the thermometer ranged from 60° to 70° and the weather was delightful. The only supplies now to be obtained are sweet potatoes, which are extremely fine, yams, and Indian corn — all of which grow in the greatest abundance. Pigs and ducks are in plenty, but fowls not to be had, since the settlers have nearly destroyed them, as they committed such mischief in their young maize plantations. As the soil seems prolific and exuberant in the extreme, I think there can be little doubt, that if cultivated by persons of some knowledge and experience in such matters, in a climate so well suited, it would be capable of growing other produce than the present. The sugar-cane and tobacco have thriven to a very promising extent when planted, but as yet of no avail from the entire ignorance, as well as want of means among the existing settlers to manufacture either. Tobacco I myself witnessed of very fine and luxuriant growth, and I was informed that a small quantity of it was cured in leaf by the master of an American whaler, and that it proved extremely good. Therefore as the visits of the whalers are confined to certain months only of the year, the time of the settlers might be profitably occupied in curing and packing, could labour be obtained for clearing and cultivating the soil for other produce. For this purpose I think the easiest and most eligible plan would be to procure Chinese husbandmen with their wives from Macao, or that quarter, bound down by agreement for a certain period. It may be remarked, that supposing the island to be cleared and fully cultivated, the outlet for its produce would be doubtful as the neighbouring people who might be considered in a commercial view, its natural consumers, both Chinese and Japanese, are determined opponents to all foreign intercourse; nevertheless I imagine it would find a market, particularly tobacco, in the Russian settlements to the northward, at Manilla, or New South Wales. From the prevailing want of labor it would be almost impossible for the settlers to provide supplies even for the number of whalers that call here, comparatively small as it is, did not the soil exhibit great fertility, and the sweet potatoe yield more, abundantly than any vegetable known, needing little attention or labor when once planted. Its own exuberance keeps all weeds under, and its plentiful crop only requires to be dug up in about four months. Maize also is equally productive, though the ground requires more labor and attention in clearing it from weeds, &c. Yams are produced also in any quantity. With all this I was rather surprised at the estab- |
lished prices of produce as noted in one of the annexed papers,* (No. 1). I was glad to find that since the period of the "Raleigh's" visit here, some sixteen months ago, no outrages have been committed on the settlers by the crews of whalers, such as those perpetrated on a former occasion by the crews of the English whalers "Cadmus" "Tory" and "Admiral Cockburn," and which were reported to Captain Quin. During the last season about thirteen or fourteen of these ships, English and American, called at Port Lloyd for refreshments. On an average each consumed and took away produce and stock to the amount of from five to six hundred dollars, part of which is generally settled for by barter, more especially in tobacco and spirits, which are apparently both of them much in demand throughout the Pacific. One whaler I was informed took away between sixty and seventy hogs, with a proportionate quantity of maize, sweet potatoes, yams, &c. In addition to those that have entered the harbour (a list of which is noted in the annexed paper, No. 2.*) several have called off and sent in their boats with trusty crews for supplies, which has frequently been done at great hazard from the fear of their crews deserting should they enter the Port; and this it appears is the greatest evil complained of. It is an evil however that it must be admitted is natural, nor do I know how it can be met in the present state of things, where men, ignorant and heedless, of an unsettled disposition, and frequently of every abandoned character embarked as they are in a seafaring life, are excited and led away with the flattering vision of an island of plenty, where no law, no restraint prevails, where all are on an equality, and where they think that law is liberty and liberty is law, in the sense of their own interpretation — and although such visionary ideas, while confined to a few individuals, are unattended with injurious consequences save to themselves, yet when disseminated by evil and designing characters amongst the unwary and well disposed, they become a bane to the community, and obstruct the progress of all honest occupations and industrious pursuits. I am led to this remark from the circumstance of such characters now composing part of the community of Port Lloyd. It cannot be denied that very extensive commercial interests frequently sustain serious injury from the want of an established legal authority in our commercial marine, to restrain and punish the offences of unruly and licentious characters, and this observation I * These papers were not communicated. |
think applies with peculiar force to ships employed in the foreign whale fishery, which seem generally to contain among their crews a great proportion of riotous and abandoned characters, and it is lamentable to hear of repeated instances where the master of a whaler has been placed in a state of coercion by his crew, entirely at their mercy, and compelled to yield to their unruly desires, to the manifest detriment of his own hard-earned profit, and the interests of his owners. It is from instances of this description having occurred here and elsewhere, that I have been induced to allude to them, and I may now advert to the state of the settlers generally, their characters, &c. as also that of other chance residents among them. It may be easily imagined that the present settlers having been, every one of them, heretofore seafaring men for many years, no very great degree of improvement in social or moral habits has been attained to amongst them, and it is painful to remark, that of the two original principal settlers, neither of them can read or write; yet they aver that from the day they commenced carrying into execution their project of settling here from Woahoo in 1830, they have actually disbursed eight thousand dollars. Many of the other settlers are equally void of education, but this is not the least of the evils that exist in this small society, though perhaps somewhat the cause of them. I found that a violent party had been formed to harass and perplex the original settlers Messrs. Mozarra and Millichamp by every possible means, and to defraud them of the possession of land to which they had the clearest right. With reference to the general state and condition of the inhabitants, it is evident, that a very malignant enmity exists chiefly with one party against the original settlers. About five months since a Sandwich Islander, on the occasion of some disagreement, was stabbed severely in the stomach by one of the Portuguese now resident here, from which he is still suffering; and it is said that his life was saved merely from the accidental circumstance of a whaler being then in the Port, whose surgeon rendered him immediate assistance, and subsequently attended him for upwards of three weeks. It was impossible without much concern to perceive such confirmed and habitual depravity practised with the utmost indifference. A day or two before my departure, I expressed a desire through Millichamp to see all the settlers and residents, and on his proceeding to the other side of the Bay to communicate my wish amongst them, he was assailed with the most violent oaths and the grossest abuse, |
which were accompanied with the threat of his life. I had requested the attendance of all the settlers and residents on board the "Larne," with the view of endeavouring to impress upon them the enormity of offences which some of them seemed to look upon with the merest levity and indifference, and to remind them that if such were actually perpetrated retribution most assuredly would, sooner or later, overtake them, and that they would pay the just penalty awarded to such crimes by the laws of the whole civilized world. I moreover on the day of my departure left with them a written document to this effect. Little I think remains to be added to these details, which perhaps may be already considered superfluous. A list of the settlers and residents now at Port Lloyd* is annexed, with some notes of their individual characters derived from enquiries I made amongst them, and my own observations and opinions which I have plainly and unreservedly stated. From the whole report, with its annexed documents, some idea, I imagine may be gathered of the character and condition of this extraordinary community. Her Majesty's Sloop "Larne,"
* This port may become of great importance hereafter, as it lies not far from the track which vessels, proceeding from the southward to the north east coast of China, may follow, during the season when the direct passage is difficult. On this subject the following note has been communicated to the Society by the President. "With regard to the north east coast of China, the passage from Macao through the Straits of Formosa may be made from April to the end of September, after which, or when the N.E. monsoon is fairly set in, it blows with great violence, so that ships visiting Macao at that season, if they do go up the China sea, are obliged to keep well over on the eastern side in order to fetch Macao with N.E. winds. "Those ships which go an Eastern passage pass from the Pacific between the south end of Formosa and the Bashee islands to reach Macao. If Chusan is to be kept by us, ships will have, after September, to proceed to the Eastward of Formosa, and have a longer passage than at present. You will find that in former days, ships destined for China were always very particular in not being too late, and when that happened they went to Macao as being more easily accomplished. If I could get hold of a chart which has been lately published of the part to the northward of Formosa, I would give you the Islands near which a ship would have to pass, and I think the Bonin islands are not a great deal out of the route." It was at one time recommended to Russia to occupy the Bonin islands, and establish there an entrepot for trade with China. M. Klaproth, in a paper written in 1823 on the commerce between Russia and China, suggested this es- |
tablishment. He says, "To the south of Japan in Lat. N. 27°. and Long. 138° east of Paris, is a group of fertile uninhabited islands, which the Japanese call Bonin Sima or Monin Sima, and are marked in the older charts Archbishop's Isles. The group is distant from China twenty degrees of longitude, and is situated on the line of passage to Kamtchatka, and on that between the north west coast of America and China. The islands possess bays and safe roadsteads — and produce timber fit for building. Without encroaching on the rights of any nation, Russia might occupy them, and establish a colony there, which would become the chief entrepot of its trade between Kamtchatka and China. The largest of the islands might be defended by forts and a garrison sufficiently strong to repel the hostile attempts of any foreign power, which however is scarcely to be apprehended. From this point we might attempt a further extension towards the west — and if possible establish a good understanding with the inhabitants of the Great Loo Choo, where it would he necessary to form another entrepot, nearer to China." Annales des Voyages - Tome. 40 - 1828 S. |
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