The Plough Boy Journals

The Journals and Associated Documents

The Plough Boy Anthology

19th Century American Whaling

Bonin Islands

Pitcairn's Island

Dictionaries & Glossaries

Ashley's Glossary of
Whaling Terms

Dana's Dictionary of
Sea Terms

A HANBOOK

TO

THE JAPANESE EMPIRE

ROUTE 85.

      Vries Island, czlled Izu no 0shima by the Japanese, is the largest and most accessible of the Izu no Shichi-to, or Seven Isles of Izu, which stretch away for 120 m. in a southerly direction from near the entrance of Tokyo Bay to 33° lat. N. Its greatest length is 10 m.; its breadth, 5 1/2 m. The ever-smoking volcano on Vries Island is sighted by all ships bound for Yokohama. The names of the other six islands are Toshima, Niijima, Kozushima, Miyake, Mikura, and Hachijo.

      Vries Island is accessible by the post-boat (sailing) from Ito in Izu (see p. 158) every fourth day to Niijima, a distance of 23 miles. The best season for the trip is early spring, the next best being winter.

      There are six villages on the island, all situated on the coast, and named respectively Niijima (or Motomura), Nomashi, Sashikiji, Habu, Senzu, and Okada. Of these, Motomura is the best to stop at, whilst Habu has the advantage of possessing a picturesque little harbour, – the submerged crater of an ancient volcano. There are no vehicles of any kind, and but few packhorses. The distances along the path connecting the villages are approximately as follows: –

      For the most part, the road runs at some distance from the coast, which it only rejoins on nearing the villages. The way usually lies through a low wood of camellia, skimmia, and other evergreens, and sometimes, as for instance between Motomura and Nomashi, along a fern-clad dell. Pheasants and woodcock abound. Cows are kept for the manufacture of condensed milk, and the calves are slaughtered for food.

      There is no road round the E. coast from Habu to Senzu; but the distance is approximately 5 ri. The way leads over the desolate slope of the volcano which occupies the whole centre of the island.

      The name of this volcano is Mihara, 2,500 ft. high. Smoke perpetually issues from its summit, and it is subject to frequent eruptions. The nearest point on the coast to the summit is Nomashi, but the ascent may be undertaken equally well from Motomura. The climb requires from 2 1/2 to 3 hrs., and the whole expedition can be made during a forenoon. Passing through the village, the ascent, as made from Motomura, leads for the iirst hour through a wood, and then emerges on to volcanic scoriae. The eminence seen ahead to the l. and called Kagami-bata, is not the summit of the mountain, but only a

portion of the wall of an enormous ancient crater, in the midst of which stands the present cone, with its smaller though still considerable dimensions. From this point it is 5 min. walk to the lip of the ancient crater, which here forms a flat oval waste of minute scorise, with stones scattered about the surface. Its greatest length on this side is estimated at nearly 1 m., and it is surrounded by low broken hillocks of lava, against whose sides the sand is piled up. Half an hour's walk across this desolate waste brings us to the little torii marking the Nomashi approach to the mountain. From this point there is a fine view. In front, and most conspicuous of all, are the other islands and islets of the Izu group, the curious pyramidal Toshima, with Shikine and Kozu behind; to the l. of Toshima the longer and lower outline of Niijima, with little Udoma in front. To the l. again, but considerably more distant, are the larger islands of Miyake and Mikura, while on exceptionally clear days the outline of Hachijo can be descried. To the W. are seen Amagi-san and other portions of the peninsula of Izu, the towering cone of Fuji, with the lesser Hakone and Oyama ranges; to the N. Misaki in Sagami, and to the N.E. the peninsula of Kazusa-Boshu. The climb hence to the top takes 1/2 hr. The width of the present crater at the summit has been estimated at 3/4 m. Mihara may also be ascended from Habu or from Senzu, the climb on that side of the island being, however, much longer and more difficult.

      A pleasant walk of about 1 m. from Habu may be taken to Bozu-ga-Hora, i.e., the "Priest's Dell," noted for its ferns. A spare day at Habu may also be devoted to walking along the coast towards Senzu; but the vapour spring on the mountainside between the two places is at a distance – 5 ri – which makes it difficult of access in one day. This spring is resorted to in cases of wounds and bruises. Futago-yama, the double-crested mountain whose red hue caused by the presence of brittle lava is so conspicuous from Habu, is a mere spur of the volcano affording no special interest.

      Steamers run monthly between Yokohama, Hachijo, and the two main islands of the Bonin group. Once a year, in summer, the boat calls at various others of the long chain of green isles and barren rocks that stretch almost in a straight line from Vries to the Volcano Islands. Japan claims jurisdiction over all these, as well as over Shin-Torishima or Marcus Island, in lat. 24°14' N., and 154° E. long. about 650 miles E.S.E. of Haha-jima.

      Hachijo is about 12 m. long by 4 m. broad. The southern half consists of a series of steep ridges some 2,300 ft. high, while the N.W. end rises into an extinct volcanic peak, – Hachijo Fuji, 2,840 ft. A narrow cultivated valley running E. and W. separates these two mountains, which are densely wooded. The aspect is picturesque from the sea, which is here of a deep indigo blue, owing to the Kuroshio, or Japanese Gulf-stream. Sheer walls of rock, and the contorted ends of lava streams, surround the island almost completely. Though there are no harbours, fair anchorages exist on the E. side at Mitsune, and on the W. at Okago, where stand the government offices. No regular inns have yet been established, but rough accommodation may be obtained at some of the peasants' dwellings. The houses on the E. side of the island are enclosed by dykes of lava, those on the W. by large boulders. Store-houses are attached, which are raised from the ground on wooden supports to ward off the depredations of rats.

      The walk from Mitsune to Okago – from sea to sea – occupies about 1 hr. But half a day during the vessel's stay would be best spent in making the ascent of the local Fuji, a steep climb of some 2 1/2 hrs. from Mitsune. The open paths should everywhere be followed, as a poisonous species of snake abounds. There is a crater on the summit, about 1/4 m. in diameter, in whose centre rises a circular plateau dotted with pools of water, where the cattle that graze on the mountain slope come to drink. Rough paths lead over to three other villages lying on the E. and S.W. sides of the southern mountain group.

      The Bonin Islands consist of three distinct groups, lying between the parallels of 26°. 30' and 27°. 45' N. Lat. They are of volcanic origin, with a fringe of coral. The most northerly cluster was called Parry's Group by Capt. Beechey, R.N., who visited the Bonins in 1827, and named the principal islands. The central and largest group includes Ototo-jima (Stapleton I.), Ani-jima (Buckland I.), and Chichi-jima (Peel I.), while the biggest member of the southernmost cluster (Coffin or Bailey I.) is now known as Haha-jima. This last lies 580 m. due S. of Yokohama. The Japanese names are given on an original system: – Chichi-jima, which means "Father Island," has near it the Islands of the Elder and the Younger Brothers (Ani and Ototo), while the islets round Haha-jima or "Mother Island" are termed "Sister," "Niece," etc., and the northernmost group includes the "Bridegroom," the "Bride," and even the "Match-maker."

      The distance from Hachijo to Chichi-jima, 395 m., lies out of the track of all sea-going vessels. Forty miles from Hachijo, Ao-ga-shima is passed, an island rising perpendicularly to a height of about 1,000 ft., which is unapproachable during the greater part of the year; yet it has a considerable population. Omitting minor pinnacles and turrets of rock, mention may be made of Tori-shima, 1,170 ft. high, the scene of a terrible volcanic eruption in 1902, when the whole population of about 150 was overwhelmed.

      Passing Party's Group, – a number of fantastically jagged rocks, – and leaving Ototo and Ani-jima on the l., the steamer enters the beautiful circular harbour of Chichi-jima, formerly known as Port Lloyd, apparently the crater of an extinct volcano. Of the numerous abrupt hills, all thickly wooded, that rise on every side, the highest is Asahi-yama, 880 ft., at the E. or upper end of the harbour. Behind a stretch of yellow sand on the N.W. side, stands the vill. of Omura (passable inn), the seat of the local government. Most of the foreign settlers live at Okumura, a little to the N.E. On the opposite or S. side is Ogi-ura, the only other fairsized village. Ferry-boats ply between Omura and Ogi-ura, 1 3/4 m. A hilly path round the head of the harbour, about 3 m., connecting the two villages, affords a pretty walk. Other good, though hilly, roads lead across to various points, notably to Hatsune-ura, 2 1/2 m. on the E., and to Tatsumi-ura (Fitton Bay) on the S.E. From Miya-no-hama, or "Jack Williams," near Omura, a fine view is obtained of Ani-jima across the narrow strait.

      Weather permitting, pleasant excursions may be made by canoe to Yagi-shima at the S.W. end of the harbour, and to Minami-jima, with its landlocked harbour, at the S.W. corner of the island.

      Haha-jima, 35 m. to the S. of Chichi-jirna, is some 7 m. long by 1 1/2 m. broad. It has no harbours. The steamer anchors some 2 m. off the vill. of Okiimura, which lies in a shallow bight with a picturesque approach. It possesses no inns, but some fair shops. Though the island is hilly (highest point 1,470 ft.) and rock-bound, its numerous valleys, well-adapted for sugar cultivation, make it the most flourishing of the whole archipelago. Cattle of a large breed find good grazing-ground in the southern part, and bull-fights are held similar to those described on p. 532. A hilly path, commanding a succession of delightful views of distant islets, traverses Haha-jima from Kitamura at the N. end to Okimura and on to Minaml-saki at the S.

      Further details of the history of the Bonin Islands and of the early settlers there may be found in Capt, Beechey's Narrative, Commodore Perry's Narrative, Vol. I. Chap. X, and in Vol. IV of the "Transactions of the Asiat. Soc. of Japan," 1876 ("A Visit to the Bonin Islands," by Russell Robertson).

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