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The Metropolitan Magazine,
June 1834

NAVAL CORRESPONDENCE.

THE NECESSITY OF COLONIZING THE SANDWICH AND BONINS ISLANDS.

      Dear Sir; – The following subject has long engrosssd my mind, and I am surprised has not long ere this been taken up by abler hands. As I consider that the maxim, "in peace we ought to be prepared for war," is sufficient ground for adding my mite, whatever its value, I shall trouble you with a few lines on the importance to the British government of adding to their resources in the Pacific, by possessing themselves of the positions of the Sandwich and Bonin (or Arzobispo) islands.

      In the event of a war which may call our fleets to the Pacific ocean, where are we to find a port, after quitting the American shores, which can at present be reckoned on as a sure rendezvous to the British flag? And let it be borne in mind, that in the event of hostilities with America, the rapidity with which intelligence would be conveyed to their cruisers, and acted on, would deprive this country not only of the port of Honululu, (Oahu, Sandwich Islands,) now principally occupied by Americans, and owing to missionary influence more immediately connected with that country; but the Bonins would, as a matter of course, be instantly fortified, and defy our efforts – at least for a time.

      That the Sandwich Islands were formally ceded to the British, and accepted by Vancouver, is well known, and that the Bonins, (or Arzobispo islands) were also formally taken possession of, as by right of discovery, by Captain Beechey, is on record. Therefore we have not to anticipate any difficulties from other powers, should policy induce Great Britain to avail herself of these two positions.

      Had Great Britain taken possession of the Sandwich Islands in 1824, at the period of the decease of the late king and queen, and when the natives would have hailed the event as a peculiar mark of favour, it would now have become a most flourishing colony, paying its own expenses, formidable to aggressors, and instead of paying dues, would have been in the receipt of those arising from the immense influx of American whalers, and others, trading to the N.W. coast and China. Discovery, civilization, and consequently Christianity, would have been more effectually advanced, and British commerce, by such means, would long ere this have supplanted that which is now almost exclusively carried on by our more enterprising friends, the Americans; although to my certain knowledge, British cargoes on the American (west coast) bear not only a premium, but are received with a confidence highly flattering to our flag.

      In the present situation of affairs, the two positions to which I am referring must become of much greater importance, as, occurring directly in

the line of communication between western America and China, and situated as the Sandwich Islands are, they, in particular, (or Oahu itself,) must become the entrepot, lying as they do, so conveniently to the ports of California, and Mexico on the east – the Russian, American, and Siberian north, Japan, China, and Bonins west, and the Philippines to the south west. Should Russia send a fleet to those seas, where could better situations be selected for cutting off her rssources, which must come from the southward, than by the positions at the Bonin and Sandwich Islands, distant from each other about three thousand miles, and differing only six degrees in latitude.

To use a seaman's expression, the trade becomes "a soldier's wind" between Tahiti and the Sandwich Islands, which would of course maintain the same relations towards Great Britain.

      As a sea port, Honululu (Oahu) possesses every advantage that we could hope for, as regards accommodation to our navy, including the class of frigates, but I am not certain if ships of the line could enter. (Port Lloyd, Bonins – any draught may enter.) When it is stated, that, at one time, nearly one hundred sail of vessel's, from six hundred to three hundred tons, chiefly American whalers, have found anchorage in the port of Honululu, some idea may be formed of its capacity, even if we say eighty of these drew twelve to sixteen feet.

      This port is formed by the barrier reefs, which are common to the islands in the Pacific, rising to the surface about three quarters to a mile from the shore, and preserving the basins within from the influence of the heavy swell, which in one continuous roar is broken on these boundaries; rendering the interior at all times safe for the purposes of careening.

      The depth within is sufficient for ships of the line, and should it ever become a British position, or under British protection, as an arsenal, the difficulty of entrance would be very readily overcome; as in carrying on the measures for defence, it is more than probable that the outworks would be carried out perhaps even to form the key of the entrance.

      In calculating the labour of such an undertaking, it will be merely necessary to look to the present fish ponds, built under the influence of the chiefs, and which are found to withstand the sea.

      With respect to the fortification of this port, nature has already done much, and even as it now stands, with British garrison, and trustworthy metal, is capable of resisting any attack. The port is commanded by "Punch-Bowl Hill battery," which is constructed on the highest pinnacle of the edge of an ancient crater, on that part of the circle nearest the sea, consequently difficult of access on every side.

      The elevation is about five hundred feet, and the range over the bar nearly two miles distant. This battery mounts nine guns, chiefly long thirty-two pounders. It is also the signal-post and look-out station, but little used for either purpose.

      On the point which forms the S.E. point of the port is situated the main fort or citadel, constructed of stone, (consisting of basalt, and compact coral limestone, cemented by shell and coral lime.) This fort is of more importance than Europeans will perhaps credit, being about one hundred yards square, and mounting forty-eight guns, some of which, although perhaps now unserviceable, would very speedily be replaced, (if necessity demanded,) from the ships in port. This fort is built with embrazures. The N.E. or land face is fourteen feet in thickness, furnished with strong gates, which with two long two pounders are the only defence; but this is covered by the Punch Bowl, distant about half a mile.

Should the Punch Bowl be in the possession of the enemy, this of course lies at its mercy. On the S.W. face, thirteen long double fortified eighteen pounders, and four eighteen pound carronades are mounted, the walls being sixteen feet in thickness. On the N.W. seventeen guns, varying from two to nine pounders. On the S.E. twelve various. Two faces look towards the bar, but that to the S.W., on which the heavy guns are mounted, is the most important. Of course, under British direction, much greater advantages would be pursued.

      The troops in 1827, or the king's own guard in regimentals, mustered two hundred rank and file, but in the event of a "turn out," six thousand stand of arms and men allotted to them would be forthcoming.

      In the event of war, the Sandwich islanders, under proper discipline, would become equally efficient as Africans; I suspect more so, as they possess more decided courage, and are not so lazy.

      The town of Honululu contains many wood and some stone houses; those of the natives, although termed "huts," from being thatched with grass, are yet far from contemptible, the interior of many, particularly those of the chiefs, being well furnished, perhaps too costly for their habits.

      The commerce is chiefly carried on by the Americans, and consists in stock from California and Mexico, for which either China or American produce is returned; and that to China, sandal wood for furs, &c. from the N.W. coast of America.

      The produce of the country may be considered as follows : – Sandal wood, cotton, and sugar – but the two latter, in consequence of missionary influence, have been entirely disregarded, although the samples produced were first rate, and labour trifling.

      Sugar must eventually succeed; the plants, (with those of Tahiti,) are the finest in the world; and lazy as the natives are, they might, under European direction,^* be easily induced to attend to its culture. The most advisable method would be to introduce Chinese, and under their hande, sugar, rice, and cotton must flourish, and the bad effects of missionary influence vanish. [The missionary establishment is American.]

      With respect to sandal wood, which is good property, and collected by the natives, (as a tax,) the following appears to be tho calculation that those islands, assuming the population twenty thousand, afford to the revenue. The males aro bound to procure annually, one pekul, (one hundred and thirty-six pounds,) for half of which they receive payment at seven dollars per pekul, and at that rale for as much more as they can bring; failing in this, a fine of four dollars. The females to carry it from the mountains, or pay one dollar, (this is generally paid, in preference to labour,) the law applying to those who are adult. The average price of wood in 1827, ten dollars in the market. The amount therefore, at Oahu, at 20,100 == 10,000 pekul, or 100,000 == 20,000l. The whole population of the islands is estimated at 160,000, and taking into consideration those islands which do not produce the wood, and that the average may be nearly estimated at one pound per man, 100,000l. may not be far from the amount which might thus be raised. The surplus wood purchased at seven dollars, and sold at ten, is not taken into the account. This supply cannot last long, as even at the period I allude to, (1827,) it was scarce. This, and the port dues, in addition to a tax on imports, might easily sustain the expenses of such a situation, even on the system of British colonies.

      The soil is capable of any thing; indeed its fault is being too rich; and so abundantly does nature provide, that the missionaries' plea, "that it

was provoking God's wrath to cultivate where he has provided sufficient for their actual wants," has been the ruin of these islands.

      The native productions are yams, taro, sweet potato, plaintains of great variety, sugar-cane, nono, oheia, turmeric, and ginger. European and West India fruits flourish, and require little trouble. The soil is chiefly decayed vegetable and volcanic matter, but much infested with vermin. I am informed that on Hawaii, (Owhyhee,) below the line of vegetation, most of the fruits indigenous to North America grow luxuriantly; gooseberries, currants, and raspberries, large, but insipid, doubtless from the sulphuric vapour from the soil, and tne neighbouring volcano on Mouna Roa.

      Thus far I have described the produce, &c. of the Sandwich Islands, to show that, as a colony or British residence, nothing but an increase of society is requisite to render the position one of comfort, as far as the means of life and resources are considered. Stock is constantly imported from California,^* and where one hundred sail of vessels assemble, the demand for supplies of all kinds must be great. Eventually, I little doubt, that the mails for China, when Mexico shall have become a settled state, will find their way by this route, viz.

      By this conveyance the trade wind can be depended on throughout the whole distance, and the wear and tear of a packet trifling.

      I have purposely avoided allusion to the fur trade of Russia, both to the southward as well as the northward of the Aleutian Chain, for reasons which had better not be made public, but the importance of a force so near to their trade as the Sandwich Islands, must ever be an object of importance, should that country think it her interest to quarrel with Great Britain.

      I cannot pretend to hold out such decided advantages to colonization at the Bonins, as those of Oahu offer, but the latter is tha result of having been long inhabited. Ascension offered but few advantages, but promises at some future period to prove that even a barren rock, by determination, and residence, may support its inhabitants.

      Water, wood, turtle, fish, and the tree cabbage (chou palmiste) are abundant at the Bonins, and to new settlers would subsist them for a long time. Indeed I am informed that some of the crews of whalers have already settled there, and the two left by the William, and assisted by the Blossom, proved that the soil is productive.

      With respect to colonizing the Bonins, no race is so well adapted as the "Pitcairn Islanders;" and I suspect they would be glad to avail

themselves of a position free from the loose morals of the other islands of the Pacific, for this want of morality alone drove them back from Tahiti, after they had made up their minds to quit their native island. In addition to these (should it be consented to by the Pitcairn people,) I would endeavour to introduce a few of the well-disposed New-Zealanders, who are free from the inherent laziness of the natives ot Sandwich Islands, or Tahiti. By the introduction in this manner of natives of other places, I am satisfied that the extension of Christianity would be promoted, as I think the simple fact of living in the society of such a race as the Pitcairn Islanders would go further to convert them than if surrounded by a host of missionaries. The question of colonization must of course stand upon the necessity or eligibility of securing this port; I shall, therefore, proceed to show its capabilities as a port, means of defence, &c.

      Port Lloyd is situated on the western side of Peel Island in the central groupe of the Bonins, or Islas Arzobispo; this groupe extending ten miles in latitude, and about five of longitude. The Port lies in lat. 27° 5' N., long 142° 11 E., is about one mile and a quarter in depth E. and W. and the same (in deep water) N. and S. The true entrance between dangers is half a mile, and such is the nature of the ground that the dangers can readily be converted into piers, forming a perfect breakwater to the interior anchorage. A glance at the chart will immediately satisfy any engineer of the peculiar facilities afforded on the western side for a continuous line of quay from the entrance into "ten fathom hole" where ships-of-the-line could refit in security. The whole of the dotted line having two fathoms only in the deepest parts, and generally about knee deep. The materials for forming such a quay are immediately at the beach, of volcanic matter, and their removal outwards would be clearing a spot for gardens or buildings. The southern part of the bay, has, however, been selected by the present residents as being adapted for immediate cultivation.

      The distance between the two nearly inaccessible rocks, which command the entrance, on the north and south, is only nine-tenths of a mile. They are about sixty or seventy feet above the level of the sea, and could be made impregnable from the sea, being nearly perpendicular on all sides. They would be commanded by the several peaks on the main island, which would also command the channel. Nature seems to have left but little for art to complete, as ten fathom hole is nearly a natural basin, and the surrounding reef capable of readily surrounding it with a secure quay. The only wind to which the port is open is that from the S.W,, and should the break water be complete it becomes landlocked. In speaking of a quay, or breakwater, it is to be borne in mind that the reefs on which they would be built are now nearly awash, and that in the deepest parts not more than one and a half or two fathoms can be met – and the filling up could be performed without wetting a foot.

      The materials for building are plentiful, both wood and stone, the former calculated for small vessels, varying from Tamanu (like mahogany) to larch, and even of the Tamanu for the repairs of the largest. I am disposed to think that the exportation of turtle and sharks' fins to China, would, for a time, be found lucrative, both abounding to an almost incredible amount.

      These islands are most conveniently situated for watching the trade of China, Japan, or Russia, on Eastern Asia and Philippines, and if any intercourse ever can be opened with Japan and the coast within, this is the point from which it could be most satisfactorily attempted.

      At the period of the re-discovery of this groupe, it immediately occurred to me that, as the inhabitants of Pitcairn's Islands were solicitous about removal, this seemed by nature pointed out as the spot where they should be located and where their peculiar habits of industry, in-

genuity, and courage, might render them of great importance to the country, of which by descent and natural feeling they claimed to be considered subjects.

      If they could have been induced to settle there, we should long ere this, have known more of Japan. Why has this place been so long tabooed? Why are we so ignorant of the country between Pekin and Kamschatka? Plainly, I should say, because we have no settlement, or even rendezvous, in that part of the world; and it is, moreover out of the track of traders. Are the natives of the Pacific, hundreds of tribes almost unknown to us, to be for ever cut off from civilization, until perhaps some more enterprising nation lead us the way – and when war is "inevitable," warn us by a salute from the heights that this formidable key is lost to us, at least in the moment of most importance, and compel us to force from the Phillippines or China, those aids which here might have been so opportunely afforded. Since the trade to China is now free from restriction, there is no reason why the money should not be transferred direct from San Blas, or the ports of Mexican State, to meet the demands in China, where the premium on new dollars is high, and where they are required for the opium trade, which, although illicit, is yet countenanced by the British, and winked at by the Chinese authorities.

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